Duration: 2-3 hours
Price Guide: $0
Last Reviewed:

When it comes to shopping, Chapel Street is one of Melbourne’s best known areas. If you’re fed up of high street shops and looking for something a little bit different, this street is second to none when it comes to variety. For everyone after something run of the mill, I advise you head elsewhere; you’ll find no tracksuits or Target stores here. Three words to best describe this street? Vintage, unique and expensive…

Catch a train to Windsor (Sandringham Line). From the city loop it should take approximately 15-20 minutes.

As you exit the station turn left, you are now at the start of Chapel Street.

First impressions can be deceiving – I admit at first glance I thought this place seemed rather shabby, dull even, with nothing obviously special to offer. However, after you’ve passed the first few rows of laundrettes and kebab huts, you’ll start to notice some interesting little boutiques. Go in them. Every one is fabulously different!

After roughly ten minutes walking you’ll notice Chapel Street Bazaar to your left.

I found this huge store/mini market to be strangely reminiscent of my Gran’s living room. Even if you’re not after anything it’s worth a look – from kitsch costume jewellery to vintage clothes and accessories, bizarre ornaments and every collectible imaginable, it’s all utterly useless in the most wonderful way. (It’s alarmingly easy to convince yourself that you do actually need some of this junk, I found myself debating whether or not to buy a pair of $150 geisha shoes … don’t ask.)

Exit the Bazaar and continue down Chapel Street.

If you’re hungry, there’s plenty of choice. The cafes are cute and the restaurants are swish; I personally sampled lunch at Tusk (a corner cafe 10 mins from the station on your left), which I couldn’t fault. There are also a few specialist cake shops which you probably wont be able to resist either. Pran Central Food Court is a 20 minute walk from the station, once again on your left, situated in the Pran Central Shopping Centre (just after Wittners shoes). This offers yet more variety.

About 20-25 minutes down Chapel Street you can turn onto Commercial Road (at the traffic lights, left or right)

There isn’t too much here apart from a few more restaurants and high street shops. But if you have time to kill, it could be worth a gander (there is also an outlet of one of Melbourne’s favourite handbag and accessory stores, Quick Brown Fox).

Continue down Chapel Street.

Did I mention how good for shoes this place is? No? Well, it’s really good. If you’re after some retro cowboy boots or 60s pumps then you’re spoilt for choice. And surprisingly enough, heaps of shops here are very affordable. There are, of course, a couple of tres exclusive boutiques that charge ridiculous amounts for second-hand jumpers that look like your Dad’s, but they’re not the only sorts of shops. As you near the Commerical Road end of Chapel Street you will notice the boutiques fade out and are replaced with more restaurants and chain stores.

Tiring, all that shopping eh? If you really can’t be bothered to walk back, you can catch a tram back right to the station anywhere along Chapel Street, catch the number 8 tram from Commercial Road into the city or walk west up the hill from the Chapel and Commerical corner to South Yarra Station where you can catch any of the City Loop or Flinders Street-bound trains into town.

Duration: 1-2 hours
Price Guide: $0-$unlimited, depending on how much shopping you do!
Last Reviewed:

If you’d like to see the Gleadall St Market in action (the final stop on this tour) you’ll need to time your tour for a Saturday morning as the market finishes at 1pm each Saturday.

Catch a train to Richmond (Zone 1). From the city loop this should take approximately 10 minutes or five minutes on a direct train from Flinders Street Station.

At Richmond station, follow the signs that direct you to Swan Street. Exit down the ramp and turn left, past the car rental store. Pass under the railway bridge and continue walking.

Swan Street shops: Swan Street may not be as whacky as Chapel Street or as grand as Melbourne’s city centre, but it certainly holds its own when it comes to discount shopping. Many stores sell Australian fashion designers’ seconds or rejects so, if you know a good deal when you see one, you could nab yourself a serious bargain.

Bridge Road is parallel with Swan Street, but it’s about a 10-minute walk from one to another. If you wish to reach it, turn left onto Church Street and walk over the hill; the major road at the bottom is Bridge Road. You may turn left or right to explore. If you don’t want to walk, you can catch the 78 or 79 tram along Church Street to get you there.

Richmond Town Hall: If you turn right at the bottom of the hill you will see the Richmond Town Hall on your left. Inside, it hosts all of Bridge Road’s cultural information. Take note also of the bronze plaques on the buildings, which will provide you with some historical insight to this Heritage-classified area.

Continue down Bridge Road.

Corner of Bridge Road Church St: there are vast numbers of cafes, restaurants and bars to be sampled around this intersection, including venues offering Thai, Burmese, Malaysian and Lebanese cuisine. Sweet Bunny is a super-cute confectionery shop that should also be visited.

Adjacent to the Town Hall is Gleadell Street Market (open Saturdays 7am-1pm) where you will find a wide range of local seasonal produce being sold by the people who grew or made it.

Gleadall Street Market: Richmond’s Gleadell Street market on Saturdays is packed with seasonal fruits and vegetables, fresh bread, herbs, flowers and gourmet delights. The market is open 7am to 1pm every Saturday except Easter Saturday, Anzac day and two Saturdays over the Christmas period. The original Richmond market opened in 1873 and this market continues the traditions of farmers travelling to Richmond to sell their fresh produce.

Duration: 1-2 hours
Price Guide: $0
Last Reviewed:

This amazing 38 hectare garden is said to be one of the world’s finest botanic gardens – boasting over 10,000 species of plants (many endangered) and an array of wildlife, it’s not hard to see why. Directions to the gardens are surprisingly sparse, but thankfully it’s not too hard to find. Open 7.30 – dusk (5.30 or 6pm in winter, spring and autumn, 8.30pm November to March); admission is free. The directions I have given follow a scenic route along the Yarra River, taking about 25 minutes in total. Alternatively, you can ride the free Melbourne City Tourist Shuttle to the Royal Botanic Gardens – the Shuttle begins at the Melbourne Museum and runs every 15 minutes between 10-4pm daily.

Catch a train to Flinders Street Station (on the city loop)

Exit via the main entrance of the station and cross over to Federation Square.

Federation Square holds a host of attractions to suit every desire. From swanky cafes and bars to the incredible National Gallery: Ian Potter Centre (which hosts Australian art), it’s a mix of culture and style. Perfect for lunch or cocktails.

Walk diagonally through Federation Square and down any of the sets of steps that lead to the Yarra River (Transport Bar will be on your right, the Ian Potter Centre on your left) At the bottom of the steps turn left.

The Yarra River runs through the very centre of Melbourne. It has played a huge part in the city’s development, once effectively a drain for the city’s early industry it has been cleaned up and now provides miles of picturesque walks for all to enjoy, is host to numerous rowing clubs, fisherpeople and other water activities. It is also host to events that are held as part of the Melbourne Festival and the Moomba Festival.

Continue walking alongside the river, following the path around until you reach Swan Street Bridge (approximately a 5-10 minute walk)

Throughout this walk you will notice various sculptures and other art dotted around. This is the Birrarung Marr precinct; art that is not confined to gallery walls. Just right of the footbridge are the Federation Bells, which play set compositions daily. On the other side of the river you will see the various rowing and boating clubs of Melbourne.

Cross Swan Street Bridge. Go straight over the road and turn left. To your right is a big hill. Follow the path that leads diagonally up and left. At the end of this path you will see a gate. This is one of the entrances to the Botanic Gardens.

Immediately as you enter there is a map showing you the layout of the park. There is no set route to go, so take your pick. Be warned – the scale of this park is huge, so be prepared to get lost – thankfully there are cafes and tearooms within the park should you need a pick-me-up. Most trees and plants are marked with informative plaques so you can get an idea of what you’re looking at. It’s hard not to see the wildlife here as most come to you; whether it’s a skittish possum or one of the overly friendly black swans (hold onto your sandwich, one was harassing me for mine). In the lake, the eels are prolific. On a sunny day, this is a truly beautiful place to visit, so be sure to take your camera. Once amongst the flurry of fauna and flowers, you almost forget you’re in the middle of a huge city; there aren’t any buildings near the park grounds and little of the city skyline is visible once you’re within the garden fence. If you have the time, try and see everything, but my personal favourites include the Lily Lake, Long Island and the Glasshouses.
One weekends the gardens are a very popular picnic spot and many functions, particularly weddings, are hosted there. During summer, there is a cinema at night and plays and pantomimes are also held on the grounds. There is a charge for all these events, see the Tourist Office in the city for more information.

Duration: 1-2 hours
Price Guide: $0-$unlimited, depending on how much shopping you do!
Last Reviewed:

Sunday: 9am-4pm (limited stalls only)

Catch a train to Melbourne Central Station.

Follow the signs to the Elizabeth Street exit of the station and turn right when you exit so you’re facing north up Elizabeth St. Walk, or catch the tram, up the the Queen Victoria Market. It’s four short blocks and all flat walking. Alternatively, all three tram routes on Elizabeth St will drop you at the door.

Officially opened on 20th March 1878, Queen Victoria Market stands strong as one of Melbourne’s most historic landmarks. Its colourful (sometimes controversial) past includes time as a school, a livestock market, a drill hall and a cemetery. I do not exaggerate when I say you can buy almost anything here! The food halls are worth a visit, boasting copious amounts of fresh fruit, veg and seafood, all of incredible quality. In the section over the road (the market is huge so take your time and explore) are stalls, stores and shops selling fashion, gifts and souvenirs.

Head back down through the market to the food area.

If you’re hungry, the food halls are an amazing experience, so don’t be unadventurous and slope off the nearest cafe. Inside the halls it can be jam packed with buyers and sellers haggling over a crate of asparagus or scrabbling for the last swiss loaf, so push your way through and nab yourself a sandwich brimming with fresh meat and antipasto, or treat yourself to a slice of heavenly mudcake from a selection of cake stores. Or, cherry pick from the different stalls – bread here, cheese there, fresh fruit somewhere else – make up a picnic and go on to our next stop.

Walk out of the market back onto Elizabeth Street, turn right and go back the way you came until you reach the corner of A’Beckett Street. From there, turn right and walk up two blocks to William Street, across the road you’ll see the Flagstaff Gardens.

* a great view through to Docklands.
Enjoy.

Duration: More than 3 hours
Price Guide: $0-29
Last Reviewed:

Prices were correct at the time of publication.

Catch a train or a tram to Melbourne Central (on the city loop). All train lines, except Sandringham and Williamstown, have loop services. Any of the Swanston Street tram lines (1, 3, 5, 6, 8, 16, 64, 67, 72) will take you to the Melbourne Central corner.

As you exit the station (Swanston Street entrance) turn left and walk up the hill to put yourself on the corner of Swanston and Latrobe Streets.

There is lots to see on this corner. Directly opposite is the State Library, whose magnificent recently restored domed reading room is well worth a visit (walk straight through the library and go up via the stairs or the elevator to access it). There is also free internet access here.

Diagonally opposite the station entrance is the vivid green 3D facade of RMIT University’s Storey Hall. This building caused a lot of controversy when it was first built, but is now a much loved part of the city’s architecture. If it is a weekday you may be able to go in and look around (though the interior is not as exciting as the exterior), but it is University property so be careful not to interrupt any events they may be hosting there.

As you exit Storey Hall or the Library, turn right. If you cross to the opposite side of the road and look up you will see Hardrock: Melbourne’s indoor climbing centre.

Whether you’re a hardcore cliff scaler or a complete novice, hardrock is suited to all types. Be aware that you must come with someone else as it’s a two-person operation. On your first session you’ll be given a basic introduction (around 15 mins) showing you the ropes (literally, excuse the pun) and safety measures. After that you and your fellow climber are free to climb any walls you wish, for as long as you want (although I wouldn’t get too cocky and try the advanced walls straight away; you’ll just scrabble around trying to get higher than 10ft and fall off). Overall, it’s a lot of fun, not to mention a great way to get fit!

Cross the road opposite Hardrock – you will see a large red brick building with steps leading up to it on either side; this is Melbourne City Baths.

Another way to keep fit! Facilities include a 30m lap pool, spa, sauna, gym and squash courts. You’ll note that each side is marked Male or Female over the entrance. The pool no longer has separate entrances for the different genders, nor does it have gender-segregated facilities.

Duration: 2-3 hours
Price Guide: $0
Last Reviewed:

Look up as you walk along. While most of the street-level architecture is given over to shops and cafes, above them are some of Melbourne’s fine original buildings, but you’ll only spot their beauty by looking past the shopfronts.

Start this tour from Flinders Street Station (on the city loop). (You can also start at Melbourne Central Station if you wish, as the two are only a few blocks away from each other, but starting at Flinders Street will avoid any backtracking). Over the course of this tour you may get hungry for lunch – on this particular tour you’ll pass too many possible lunch venues to mention, of every conceivable variety. While in Melbourne I sampled many cafes and restaurants and have yet to have a bad experience in one, so relax and take your pick. Many of the quirkier, one-off shops require a little more exploring to find, but follow this guide and you’ll be in the right track. Also, check out our Cheap Eats section for some more ideas.

Walk out through the main entrance at Flinders Street Station and cross over to the Swanston Street and Flinders Street corner, outside Young Jackson’s Pub.

Opposite the station, on the south-eastern corner of the intersection, is Federation Square. Boasting some of Melbourne’s hottest bars and cafes, plus the Ian Potter Centre: National Gallery of Victoria, it’s a hotspot for both locals and visitors. Just past Fed Square (as it’s known to locals) is Birrarung Marr, Melbourne’s most recently created major park. It can be reached from the Federation Square car park, by heading down the stairs along the southern side of Fed Square or by taking the path along the river next to the Princes Bridge.

Continue north along Swanston Street.

Swanston Steet offers both compelling architecture and shopaholic bliss – from one-off boutiques to tacky souvenir stores (cork hat anyone?) there’s something to suit everyone. Better-known brands housed on the strip include Mango and Quicksilver. By following Swanston Street all the way up you’ll pass – in this order – Melbourne Town Hall (on the corner with Collins Street), the State Library (on the Latrobe Street corner, it also has free internet) and Melbourne City Baths, just past RMIT up the top end of the city. All are on your right as you go along and all of which are worth a visit. In terms of clothes shops, it’s better to turn off and explore the streets, lanes and arcades that make up the grid of the city centre. Also, if you fancy it, there are horse-drawn carriages available for hire to take a leisurely spin around the city’s highlights.

After crossing over Flinders Lane, turn left or right (you choose) at the next intersection, taking you on to Collins Street.

Collins Street is undeniably an awe-inspiring streetscape – the wealth invested in this street over two hundred years is obvious as you pass the grand banks and stores such as Tiffanys and Chanel. Other sights to see on this street include Scots Church and St Michaels Uniting Church (140 and 120 Collins Street), as well as the Regent Theatre (191 Collins St).

An absolute must see whilst wandering through the city is the Block Arcade. You can enter it either through Elizabeth Street or Collins Street – inspired by the Galleria Vittorio in Milan, the design is beautiful, and having been restored, fully intact. There are a few specialist shops spread out inside (of most note to me, Haighs chocolates). Block Place connects the arcade with Little Collins Street, which consists of a tiny street rammed full of delightful cafes (I strongly recommend breakfast at Caffe Cortile).

If you had turned left from Swanston Street onto Collins Street, turn right at the end of the street onto Elizabeth Street and continue walking until you see Bourke Street on your right. Or, if you chose to turn right, turn left onto Russell Street then walk down the hill to Bourke Street. Turn left onto Bourke Street and walk down to the corner of Swanston and Bourke.

Be sure to check out Jetty Surf too for a huge range of summer fashion and beachwear, also PriceLine; a discount store for cosmetics and toiletries – there are several of these stores dotted around the town centre, the biggest of which can be accessed from both Swanston or Bourke Street.

When you’re done shopping on Bourke Street Mall, return to the Swanston Street corner, continue to head north and you will soon see an entrance to Melbourne Central – enter this central-city mall and you will find yourself amongst four floors of bars, cafes, a cinema, homewares and – you guessed it – more fashion, not to mention a food court.

Lunch: if you haven’t eaten lunch already, you could give one of the many restaurants here a try.

Exit Melbourne Central back onto Swanston Street, turn left onto Latrobe Street and continue walking down the hill until you reach Elizabeth Street.

Elizabeth Street has a couple of boutiques dotted along it, such as Shibuya (which is quite pricey) also several shoe shops. The shopping’s not nearly as glamorous as Collins or even Bourke or Swanston Streets, but if you have a motorbike fan with you, they’ll be in heaven as Elizabeth Street is packed with motorcycle shops with their wares arrayed on the footpath.

To get back to where you started, walk south down Elizabeth Street and you’ll soon see the familiar golden-yellow bricks of Flinders Street Station in front of you. This is the back entrance to the station. You can simply walk east along Flinders Street to get to the main station entrance if that’s where you need to be.

Duration: More than 3 hours
Price Guide: $0
Last Reviewed:

Melbourne is all about the hidden and the tucked away. It’s a city defined by its laneways and the secrets they contain. In the Melbourne Upstairs and Downstairs series of tours I’ll give you a little insider’s peek into some of this city’s less obvious places to go.

After a ceiling collapse related to roadworks in March 2008, the Degraves Subway was closed for a short period. If the subway is still closed when you try to visit, then simply move on to Stopover 2.

Start at Flinders Street Station.

If you’ve caught a train to the station and/or have a valid ticket for the day then start inside the station itself and go to any platform from 1 through to 10 and then go down one of the two staircases in the middle. There will be a sign hanging above directing you to the Degraves subway. Go down the stairs and turn towards the station exit barriers at the northern end of the subway.

if you’ve not got a valid ticket there’s no need to buy one, from the main entrance, cross the road toward Young Jackson’s pub and turn left, heading west along Flinders St until you reach a staircase in the footpath, just past the entrance to the Port Philip Arcade. There’s a sign above it directing you to the Degraves Subway. Go down the stairs.

Degraves Subway is properly known as the Campbell Arcade, but everyone calls it Degraves Subway. Down there, underneath Flinders Street itself is a jumble of independent Melbourne retailers. There’s an internet shop, a hairdresser and a newsagent, but there are also some of Melbourne’s most creative retailers. Among them are Sticky – a specialist comic and zine store; Corky St Clair – stocking artisan-made clothing, jewellery and assorted tchotchkes; Cat’s Miaow – independently designed and made clothing; Wax Museum – rare hip hop and beats; and Muff – specialising in vintage clothing.

Once you’re done with all that Degraves Subway has to offer, head north out towards the staircase up to Degraves Street. Grab a snack at the awesome waffle place at the top of the stairs if you’re feeling peckish, but otherwise push on until you reach Flinders Lane, the first intersection with Degraves St. Once there, turn right and head east towards Swanston Street. Just before you reach Swanston Street there will be a short flight of stairs on your right at the entrance to the Nicholas Building. Head in there, past Kinki Gerlinki and Route 66 and then go up the stairs that are on your right just past the elevators. At the end of the first flight of stairs is Retrostar.

Retrostar is packed to the gills with an enormous amount of vintage and vintage-esque clothing, accessories, hats, shoes and other paraphenalia. There is also a shop within the shop devoted to band t-shirts, originals and remakes.

Once you’re done with the bargain basement retro stylings of Retrostar, it’s time to go somewhere very different. Exit the Nicholas Building onto Flinders Lane and continue heading east along Flinders Lane (up the hill) until you get to number 181, and go down the stairs to Christine.

This boutique has a lot of very very very expensive things in it, which are nice to look at, but not at all in the budget so Christine is really an eye candy stopover. However, it does have some inexpensive jewellery pieces if you look carefully and, if you happen to arrive during one of their sale periods, there are some serious bargains on designer gear to be had.

Once the sheer luxury starts making your head spin, head back up the stairs and out on to Flinders Lane. Go back down the hill to the corner of Swanston Street and turn right and head almost up to Lonsdale St to 252 Swanston St, which is Curtin House.

If you like (and you have a valid ticket), you can catch the tram up Swanston St instead. Any of the trams that run along Swanston will take you the two blocks to Lonsdale.

Curtin House has been described as a vertical laneway and is packed with shopping and drinking and dining options (as well as a martial arts studio and the building owner’s apartment).

Metropolis is one of the first stops as you head up the stairs. One of Melbourne’s most art and design-oriented bookshops it also has a great selection of unusual and eclectic music and stocks most of the city’s free street press. A lovely spot to while away some time poking through the shelves and perhaps reclining on the couch to have a little try before you maybe buy.

Walk out of Metropolis and over the the left-hand side of level three, you’re now in Someday Gallery.

Someday Gallery and Shop is home to some gallery pieces, but is also home to a great range of interesting independent fashion labels from around Australia and the world.

Keep going up the stairs, it’s time to go to Order and Progress.

Order and Progress is run by a Brazilian expatriate who wanted to give her favourite Brazilian fashion labels a home in her new home – Melbourne. Order and Progress is where that happens.

You’re done with Curtin House now (unless you’re also doing the Eating and/or Drinking parts of this series, then you have more to explore) so head back down the stairs and out onto Swanston St.

Turn left and go back down Swanston St until you reach Little Collins St, turn right and head west along Little Collins until you reach the Block Arcade entrance (on your left, a little before you reach Elizabeth St). Head into the Block Arcade, squeeze past the crowds of cafe tables and keep an eye out for the staircase heading down on your left. This is Basement Discs.

Basement Discs describes itself as stocking Melbourne’s most interesting range of Rock Pop (both current retro), Jazz, Blues, R’n'B, Country, Folk, World Roots Music. It’s got an incredible range of music for every taste and a whole lot that you’re yet to discover. The shop also has regular live, free, in-store performances from touring and local acts. They’re always at lunchtime on Fridays so that’s a good time to aim to go there and maybe catch a free show.

Duration: More than 3 hours
Price Guide: $0
Last Reviewed:

Don’t try doing this tour on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. At least one of the galleries will be shut. And kicking off at 9am is not advised either, gallery owners like to sleep in.

Start at Flinders Street Station.

If you’ve caught a train to the station and/or have a valid ticket for the day then start inside the station itself and go to any platform from 1 through to 10 and then go down one of the two staircases in the middle. There will be a sign hanging above directing you to the Degraves subway. Go down the stairs and turn towards the station exit barriers at the northern end of the subway.

if you’ve not got a valid ticket there’s no need to buy one, from the main entrance, cross the road toward Young Jackson’s pub and turn left, heading west along Flinders St until you reach a staircase in the footpath, just past the entrance to the Port Philip Arcade. There’s a sign above it directing you to the Degraves Subway. Go down the stairs.

An artist-run initiative, it is funded by the City of Melbourne and is home to local artists from many different backgrounds. Painting, sculpture, multimedia, even performance art has all appeared in these glass boxes. And, if you happen to strike the Subway during one of the regular openings for a new exhibition, you might just score yourself a free glass of red wine.

Once you’re done with all that Degraves Subway has to offer, head north towards the staircase up to Degraves Street. Grab a snack at the awesome waffle place at the top of the stairs if you’re feeling peckish, but otherwise push on until you reach Flinders Lane, the first intersection with Degraves St. Once there, turn right and head east towards Swanston Street. Cross over Swanston Street and continue east up Flinders Lane until you reach number 185, Anna Schwartz Gallery.

Now, hopefully you’re dressed in top-to-toe black and looking über chic, because Anna Schwartz Gallery is pretty damn arty. (The Gallery is open 12-6pm Tuesday to Friday and 1-5pm on Saturday).

The pieces exhibited here are all for sale (a little tip, if you need to ask how much, you perhaps shouldn’t be asking), so don’t touch! But while it can all be a little too serious at times, it is a free way to see some of the most cutting-edge contemporary works in Australia and, perhaps, in the world.

Back down the stairs on to street level, you’ve only got a little way to walk. Continue east along Flinders Lane until you reach 141 Flinders Lane, just over Russell Street. Head in to the building and make your way upstairs to level 2, to The Narrows.

This teeny little space is open Wednesday to Friday, 12-5pm and Saturdays, 12-6pm, so make sure you time your tour to fit in with those hours.

The Narrows is a contemporary art space hosting local, national and international artists. The program consists of internally curated and artist-generated projects and periodically explores graphic design in the context of artistic interpretation and professional promotion.

Head back downstairs and out on to Flinders Lane. Turn left and walk to the first corner, the intersection with Russell Street. There, turn right and walk north up Russell Street until you reach the corner of Little Collins Street. There, turn left and head down Little Collins for almost two blocks. Once you’ve crossed Swanston Street keep going until you’re almost at Elizabeth Street, on your right will be the entrance to the Royal Arcade (coffee shop on one side, jewellery store on the other).

Go in to the Arcade and just past the entrance on your left is a doorway with signage for Marais and Don’t Come. This is the next stop on your tour.

Up the stairs, past Marais and on to the second level you’ll find a huge airy space – this is the Don’t Come Gallery. It’s also a store, which stocks hipster labels like Schwipe, but we’re here for the art.

Like all the galleries on this tour, the exhibitions here change regularly, but the overarching theme is contemporary and edgy. To suit the enormous, light-filled room, the pieces in here are often huge too.

On to the last stop! Go downstairs and out of the Royal Arcade on to Little Collins Street. Turn right and walk to Elizabeth Street. Then, take another right and walk to the corner of Bourke Street. Now, you have to go about three blocks west. If you like, you can walk, but I suggest you hop on either an 86 or 96 tram at the corner of Elizabeth and Bourke Streets and take that instead. If you don’t already have a public transport ticket for the day, you can just buy a CitySaver ticket on the tram for the three stops. Make sure you have change for the machine though.

Once you’ve reached the corner of Bourke Street and King Street, whether by tram or on foot, turn right and go to number 171 and, of course, head up the stairs.

Kings Artist Run Initiative is open from 3-6pm Wednesday to Friday and 12-6pm on Saturdays. It is another of Melbourne’s artist-run initiatives. Two of its founders were video artists and Kings has been associated with that form from its beginnings in 2001, but the gallery has been home to all sorts of different artistic forms.

It’s just two rooms, but there’s plenty here to stimulate the mind.

Duration: More than 3 hours
Price Guide: depends on how much you eat
Last Reviewed:

This is not so much a tour as it is a collection of places in Melbourne that are good to eat at and slightly off the beaten track.

Most of these places are a bit more expensive than your average Cheap Eat on here, but sometimes you need to treat yourself. Also, nearly all of them function as bars as well so you could use this as a bar tour (and perhaps have a bar snack or two along the way). Finally, they’re mostly evening-only venues. I’ll make a note at each venue as to whether it’s primarily lunch, dinner or both.

Begin at the main entrance to Flinders Street Station.

Cross the road to the corner where Young Jackson’s Hotel is, turn left and walk along Flinders Street until you reach the corner of Degraves Street (about halfway along the block). Turn right up Degraves, continue to Flinders Lane and cross over to enter Centre Place. Hell’s Kitchen is at number 20, on your right.

Go past Jungle Juice, you can visit that another time (and you should) and head up the stairs to Hell’s (primarily a lunch venue).

This place is beloved of Melbourne’s art, independent publishing and general hipster crowd. During the day they offer great coffee, a good selection behind the bar (including two local beers on tap) and a good range of bar snack things (olives, wasabi peas etc) and tasty lunch things. Their pides have interesting fillings and are good and cheap at around $10 or less. They come with a little side salad too. There’s also usually a soup on offer and a couple of more substantial hot dishes for a bit more dosh.

From Hell’s, continue north through Centre Place and turn right on to Collins Street. At the corner of Collins and Swanston Streets, turn left and head up two blocks to Curtin House at 252 Swanston Street.

If you’re feeling tired or lazy, jump on any of the trams that go up Swanston Street and get off at Lonsdale Street, cross the road and backtrack a short distance to Curtin House.

, but we’re here to eat so head on up to the first floor to Cookie, which is primarily an evening venue.

Cookie is a huge space with one of the longest bars I’ve ever seen and an equally long list of beers on offer from all around the world, the menu is built around drinkers and so can fit in with however hungry you are. The primarily Thai-inspired food comes in bar snacks (starting at $6.50), small dishes (from $8.00), medium dishes (from $16.50) and large dishes (from $19.50). A couple of non-Asian things creep in there, like a pasta or two, but it’s primarily South East Asian: curries, stir frys, soups, salads, grills and seafood with lots of fresh, zesty flavours. There are heaps of vegetarian options too.

Done with Cookie? Head back downstairs, across the road and a few doors further north on Swanston Street to Sahara, which is upstairs at number 301 Swanston Street.

Sahara is a beloved hang out of uni students from RMIT’s nearby campus. It’s got cheap drinks, a comfy space, friendly staff and the front windows provide an excellent vantage point for looking out over Swanston Street and all its goings on.

The food here’s more your Mod Oz sort of deal, with a fairly strong Mediterranean bias. Grills, pizza, steaks, burgers, pasta and a really good antipasto platter if you just want something to pick at over a few drinks. Entrees are $6-8, Mains are $12-25 and Desserts $7. It’s open for lunch on Fridays, but is mainly a dinner venue, doing evening meals from Monday-Saturday.

Back on to Swanston Street, head down the hill to Bourke Street and there go east up the hill almost to Spring Street (catch the 86 or 96 tram if you like, it’s a fair walk).

At the top of the hill, look out for Meyers Place, on the southern side of the street. Head down Meyers Place and look for the chalkboard with a menu on it on the wall on your left, through that doorway and up the stairs is the Waiter’s Club.

The Waiter’s is only open in the evenings.

We’re almost done. Head back to Bourke Street, turn left and go west to Exhibition Street. There turn right and go north to Lonsdale Street. There, take a left and go to number 113.

Open for lunches on weekdays and also evening meals during the week and on Saturday nights.

Duration: More than 3 hours
Price Guide: depends on how much you drink
Last Reviewed:

This is not so much a tour as it is a collection of places in Melbourne that are good to drink at and slightly off the beaten track. Most of these places are a bit more expensive than your average bar, but sometimes you need to treat yourself. Also, nearly all of them function as eateries as well so you could use this as a food tour too. Finally, they’re mostly evening-only venues.

Start at Flinders Street Station.

Head east across the road from the main entrance to Flinders Street Station, towards Federation Square. Don’t go into Fed Square though, turn right and head south towards the river. But don’t cross the river, just before you go on to Princes Bridge, turn left, you’ll see an elevator, perhaps some signs for river cruises and a staircase, go down that.

This is Riverland. If you’re doing this tour on an overcast, grey or (unlikely given the never ending drought, but) rainy day, Riverland will be lacking it’s zing. It’s in sunshine that this primarily outdoors bar shines – and when every single suit in Melbourne can be found drinking at its long communal tables after work on a Friday. Pull up a bench at one of those tables and tuck in to its range of four on tap and more bottled beers, very decent although brief wine list and usual range of mixed drinks and spirits. Prices aren’t the cheapest, but nor are they eye-watering.

There’s also a really good range of bar snacks and other light meals. On sunny weekends and after work, they crank up the barbecue and churn out some rather fancy sausages in crunchy bread rolls.

Head back over Swanston Street to Flinders Street Station. From there, cross the road to the corner where Young Jackson’s Hotel is, turn left and walk along Flinders Street until you reach the corner of Degraves Street (about halfway along the block). Turn right up Degraves, continue to Flinders Lane and cross over to enter Centre Place. Hell’s Kitchen is at number 20, on your right.

Go past Jungle Juice, you can visit that another time (and you should) and head up the stairs to Hell’s Kitchen. This place is beloved of Melbourne’s art, independent publishing and general hipster crowd. They offer great coffee, a good selection behind the bar (including two local beers on tap) and a good range of bar snack things (olives, wasabi peas etc) and tasty lunch things.

Head downstairs and turn left and go back towards Flinders Lane. Turn left on Flinders Lane and go to Swanston Street, there, turn left and walk north over Collins Street and then up a little further to Little Collins Street, there it’s another left (yep, you’ve come in a circle pretty much) and go to number 267.

Ready for a cocktail or two? Then past the lime green door and up the stairs with you, welcome to Tony Starr’s Kitten Club.

Designed with the hepcat vibe of 50s and 60s bars in mind, Tony Starr’s is an eating and drinking venue that regularly has live jazz performances and always has amazing cocktails. All the classics are on the list – they do especially good martinis – but their ever-changing house-designed list is pretty special and you should have a go at that too, funds permitting.

From Tony Starr’s, it’s back down the stairs and right on to Little Collins. At Swanston Street, turn left and head north and head up a block to Curtin House at 252 Swanston Street. If you’re feeling tired or lazy, jump on any of the trams that go up Swanston Street and get off at Lonsdale Street, cross the road and backtrack a short distance to Curtin House.

Otherwise, get on up ALL the stairs (or wait for the super slow and often out of order lift) and get yourself a Rooftop drink. A small range of beers on top, a nice little cocktail list, a basic little range of food and snacks and super friendly bar staff. It’s a great bar. And yet another of Melbourne’s cool kids’ favourite places to play.

east, all the way up to Parliament House on Spring St (if it’s late and you’re a bit drunk, just get on the next passing 86 or 96 tram, save your legs). On Spring St, turn left and go to number 161. The entrance is pretty easy to miss, there’ll be a little sign above your head and an anonymous looking wooden door on your left. That’s the door you want so go through that and up the stairs.

The Supper Club, with its huge round window looking over Parliament House, is a Melbourne late night institution. They’re licensed to about 7am I think, so you can wander up here very very very late and still get another drink (which will probably be the last thing you need, but there you go). Thankfully you can also get something to eat (I recommend the eggplant and goat’s cheese toasted sandwich, heaven).

This place tends towards the more luxe end of the market and if you’d like to drop a few hundred dollars on a bottle of wine or champagne or get into the most expensive round of your life with some very old whiskies, then this is your venue. But a not-quite-so-old whisky or a glass of decent, interesting wine are also available and make a not too expensive and extraordinarily pleasurable way to wind up the night. Especially if you can get the couch in front of that aforementioned big window. Excellent stuff.